Big Box Store Fitting vs. A REAL Fitting
One of the more common questions regarded being fit by the retail or big box stores. While this may be better than nothing, it is a far cry short of what a complete fitting entails. A fitting at a retailer will involve determining lie angle, length of shaft, shaft flex, and grip size. The shortcoming of this method are:
#1. They will use any club with any shaft and have you hit off a lie board to determine lie angle. Using a lie board is not the best method for determining lie angle and it’s also essential to use the shaft that you will be playing as different shafts will have different toe down or droop effects.
#2. Most companies are trying to get you to play longer clubs rather than what is manageable. Reason is that in theory, the longer the shaft, the more distance you’ll get. This simply is not true.
#3. Flex is what? A true fitting will find what the proper frequency is for you, the right weight of shaft, the proper length, in essence, the RIGHT shaft. In the retail shops, you will only have the option of shafts that the manufacturer decides to put in the club.
#4. What is the right grip size? The right grip size is the one that feels best in your hand and lets you grip the club with the proper tension. You can’t find that out by putting your hand on a size chart as they will have you do at the other places.
I’ve hit the high spots here but there are many other major differences. Big Box stores don’t measure for the proper MOI and they certainly don’t orient the shaft in the club in the optimum playing position. This one aspect alone creates consistency in your clubs. You are also stuck with standard length deviations, ½”, as well as standard deviations between shafts in their flexes, usually 4 CPMs. What if you don’t need ½” between clubs and .4” fits you better and 3 CPMs difference between clubs is a better fit? The answer is: TOUGH! They can’t do it.
Now, let’s talk cost factors. There are two schools of thought regarding the perception of having clubs made for you by an independent club builder. One view is that they are more expensive than off the rack clubs. NOT TRUE! A set of Ping G series irons could set you back $600 to $800 and a set of TaylorMade irons would set you back $700 to $900. You can get a professional grade set of clubs made to your exact specs at comparison prices. And remember, the clubs will fit your swing, guaranteed.
The next misconception regarding custom clubs comes as a result of what I call the “stick and glue” guys that operate out of their garage. (note: this does not mean that all fitter/builders who use their garage are “stick and glue” guys) The opinion of some regarding custom clubs resulting from the practices of these individuals and the materials that they use, is that custom clubs are cheap and inferior. You all know someone that played these clubs at some point or you yourself perhaps played or are maybe still playing a set. The clubs I’m talking about are referred to as “knock-offs” or “clones”. They are basically look-a-likes to major name brands that you all know. Some of these copies have names like Big Bursa or Big Brother, King Snake, Tour Edition, Tour Fire, and many others. These sets can generally be had for just a few hundred dollars and the builders may check you for lie angle and ask what you hit from 150 yards, but this is about all the fitting that you will get. Please don’t misunderstand, I am not knocking these guys as I’m sure that they have their place but they have done the professional fitter/builder a world of hurt and misconception regarding their trade.
If you walk into a fitter/builder’s shop the first thing you should take note of is the amount of equipment and instruments that he has. Secondly, look for certificates of achievement and awards. Ask questions about his training and ask to see his fitting equipment and ask him what his process is. Don’t be afraid to engage him in conversation. If you get resistance or defensive reactions, don’t walk, run. Ask to see examples of the clubs that are built. If they look like one of the name brands that you are familiar with, don’t walk, run. Chances are you are dealing with a “stick and glue” guy.
One of the main concerns of a professional fitter/builder is the grade of steel that is used in the club heads. We are very careful to verify that the heads we use are of the highest grades available. For this reason, we look for heads made of 304 Stainless, 1020 low carbon, 3430 Stainless, and 431 Stainless. These heads are equal to or exceed the quality of steel that you find in the major name brands. The heads we use are made in the same foundries as the “big boys”. They undergo exacting standards and scrutiny for quality control. The acceptable margins for tolerances for all practical purposes are the same. However, from experience, I have found that there are smaller deviations within the club heads that we use.
Exactly what can you expect when dealing with an independent club fitter/builder? First and foremost, you’ll be dealing with someone that has a true desire to see that your equipment fits you perfectly. You’ll have someone that is available to make adjustments and tweaks for you as needed. You will have the opportunity to try various pieces of equipment that offer the technology that will help you improve. You will also be able to have the set make-up configured to just what you need and not be forced into buying clubs you’ll never use. The shaft that you get will be the shaft that fits your swing rather than having to settle for what the “other guys” decide to put into their sets.
Let’s look at another scenario that some of you asked about. This goes back to having the retail shops or some other organization such as Golftek do your fitting. As stated earlier, the fitting is very limited. But the main thing I want to emphasize is that even though they may fit you, they aren’t the ones doing the building. Also, you may find someone that can build you a set (normally the “stick and glue” guys) but they can’t fit you. The caution and suggestion here is to please get your fitting and club work done by the same person. If the guy that fit you ain’t the guy who builds your equipment, you’re likely to get shafted. They must be one in the same for it to be a true professional fit and custom set of irons. It only makes sense to do it this way. You’re dealing with one person and he understands and knows exactly what he did and needs to do to get the best product in your hands.
Bottom line, by going to an independent fitter/builder you will have expertly made and top of the line equipment that is backed by the reputation of the individual. Remember, the most important customer that we have is you. Our lively hood is on the line each and every time. Your equipment will have the same warranty (or better than) the equipment you’d get from a retail shop. Another thing you’ll get from a professional fitter/builder is straight talk and answers and unbiased information. There are no hidden agendas to sell you specific equipment because the sales staff gets paid extra money in the form of “spiffs” from the equipment companies. In short, you will receive individualized attention to detail and to you from someone who cares about your game.
The next time you’re considering the purchase of golf equipment, give some serious thought to seeking out a certified professional fitter/builder. That choice can make your game.
#1. They will use any club with any shaft and have you hit off a lie board to determine lie angle. Using a lie board is not the best method for determining lie angle and it’s also essential to use the shaft that you will be playing as different shafts will have different toe down or droop effects.
#2. Most companies are trying to get you to play longer clubs rather than what is manageable. Reason is that in theory, the longer the shaft, the more distance you’ll get. This simply is not true.
#3. Flex is what? A true fitting will find what the proper frequency is for you, the right weight of shaft, the proper length, in essence, the RIGHT shaft. In the retail shops, you will only have the option of shafts that the manufacturer decides to put in the club.
#4. What is the right grip size? The right grip size is the one that feels best in your hand and lets you grip the club with the proper tension. You can’t find that out by putting your hand on a size chart as they will have you do at the other places.
I’ve hit the high spots here but there are many other major differences. Big Box stores don’t measure for the proper MOI and they certainly don’t orient the shaft in the club in the optimum playing position. This one aspect alone creates consistency in your clubs. You are also stuck with standard length deviations, ½”, as well as standard deviations between shafts in their flexes, usually 4 CPMs. What if you don’t need ½” between clubs and .4” fits you better and 3 CPMs difference between clubs is a better fit? The answer is: TOUGH! They can’t do it.
Now, let’s talk cost factors. There are two schools of thought regarding the perception of having clubs made for you by an independent club builder. One view is that they are more expensive than off the rack clubs. NOT TRUE! A set of Ping G series irons could set you back $600 to $800 and a set of TaylorMade irons would set you back $700 to $900. You can get a professional grade set of clubs made to your exact specs at comparison prices. And remember, the clubs will fit your swing, guaranteed.
The next misconception regarding custom clubs comes as a result of what I call the “stick and glue” guys that operate out of their garage. (note: this does not mean that all fitter/builders who use their garage are “stick and glue” guys) The opinion of some regarding custom clubs resulting from the practices of these individuals and the materials that they use, is that custom clubs are cheap and inferior. You all know someone that played these clubs at some point or you yourself perhaps played or are maybe still playing a set. The clubs I’m talking about are referred to as “knock-offs” or “clones”. They are basically look-a-likes to major name brands that you all know. Some of these copies have names like Big Bursa or Big Brother, King Snake, Tour Edition, Tour Fire, and many others. These sets can generally be had for just a few hundred dollars and the builders may check you for lie angle and ask what you hit from 150 yards, but this is about all the fitting that you will get. Please don’t misunderstand, I am not knocking these guys as I’m sure that they have their place but they have done the professional fitter/builder a world of hurt and misconception regarding their trade.
If you walk into a fitter/builder’s shop the first thing you should take note of is the amount of equipment and instruments that he has. Secondly, look for certificates of achievement and awards. Ask questions about his training and ask to see his fitting equipment and ask him what his process is. Don’t be afraid to engage him in conversation. If you get resistance or defensive reactions, don’t walk, run. Ask to see examples of the clubs that are built. If they look like one of the name brands that you are familiar with, don’t walk, run. Chances are you are dealing with a “stick and glue” guy.
One of the main concerns of a professional fitter/builder is the grade of steel that is used in the club heads. We are very careful to verify that the heads we use are of the highest grades available. For this reason, we look for heads made of 304 Stainless, 1020 low carbon, 3430 Stainless, and 431 Stainless. These heads are equal to or exceed the quality of steel that you find in the major name brands. The heads we use are made in the same foundries as the “big boys”. They undergo exacting standards and scrutiny for quality control. The acceptable margins for tolerances for all practical purposes are the same. However, from experience, I have found that there are smaller deviations within the club heads that we use.
Exactly what can you expect when dealing with an independent club fitter/builder? First and foremost, you’ll be dealing with someone that has a true desire to see that your equipment fits you perfectly. You’ll have someone that is available to make adjustments and tweaks for you as needed. You will have the opportunity to try various pieces of equipment that offer the technology that will help you improve. You will also be able to have the set make-up configured to just what you need and not be forced into buying clubs you’ll never use. The shaft that you get will be the shaft that fits your swing rather than having to settle for what the “other guys” decide to put into their sets.
Let’s look at another scenario that some of you asked about. This goes back to having the retail shops or some other organization such as Golftek do your fitting. As stated earlier, the fitting is very limited. But the main thing I want to emphasize is that even though they may fit you, they aren’t the ones doing the building. Also, you may find someone that can build you a set (normally the “stick and glue” guys) but they can’t fit you. The caution and suggestion here is to please get your fitting and club work done by the same person. If the guy that fit you ain’t the guy who builds your equipment, you’re likely to get shafted. They must be one in the same for it to be a true professional fit and custom set of irons. It only makes sense to do it this way. You’re dealing with one person and he understands and knows exactly what he did and needs to do to get the best product in your hands.
Bottom line, by going to an independent fitter/builder you will have expertly made and top of the line equipment that is backed by the reputation of the individual. Remember, the most important customer that we have is you. Our lively hood is on the line each and every time. Your equipment will have the same warranty (or better than) the equipment you’d get from a retail shop. Another thing you’ll get from a professional fitter/builder is straight talk and answers and unbiased information. There are no hidden agendas to sell you specific equipment because the sales staff gets paid extra money in the form of “spiffs” from the equipment companies. In short, you will receive individualized attention to detail and to you from someone who cares about your game.
The next time you’re considering the purchase of golf equipment, give some serious thought to seeking out a certified professional fitter/builder. That choice can make your game.
Accurately measuring your loft and lie is an important part of custom fitting golf clubs. Many manufacturers will sometimes have a 2° to 3° variance in the loft marked on the head and the actual loft on the face. This can have a dramatic impact on your ball flight and distance. Not to mention the face angle that could be open or hooked to various degrees and can change the direction of your ball flight. All of this can be checked and measured during a fitting session.
I dynamically test each club in your set to determine exactly where you are striking the ground with the sole of the iron. This will tell us if you are hitting shots off line simply because your clubs are not set up for accurate shots. In the illustration below notice the first club shows contact near the toe of the club: This would cause any ball struck with this club to go to the right of the intended line of ball flight. The club on the right showing contact on the heel of the club: This will cause any ball struck with this club to go to the left of the intended line of ball flight. Thus the center club would be the ideal contact point that would send the ball on the intended line of ball flight.
By having the very best equipment for measuring and adjusting Loft and Lie I insure more consistent yardage and accuracy throughout your set of irons. I make up for manufacturing defects during the construction process on all clubs and I will correct defects caused by results o your irons constantly hitting the ground over a period of time. I have the very best in measuring devices and bending devices to adjust virtually any set of irons to the correct fit for each golfer.
The rules of golf state "The shaft shall be straight, with the same bending and twisting properties in any direction and at any point along its length, the shaft shall: (1.) bend in such a way that the deflection is the same regardless of how the shaft is rotated about its longitudinal axis; and (2.) twist the same amount in both directions."
The intent of this rule is for shafts to perform symmetrically with respect to these properties, and the goal from a manufacturing standpoint should be to achieve this objective to the extent that it will make no difference how a particular club shaft is oriented in a golf club.
The intent of this rule is for shafts to perform symmetrically with respect to these properties, and the goal from a manufacturing standpoint should be to achieve this objective to the extent that it will make no difference how a particular club shaft is oriented in a golf club.
However, due to manufacturing tolerance, it is not always possible to make symmetrical shafts. Every golf shaft has a "spine", and that spine is stiffer than the rest of the circumference of the shaft. The best method to measure the symmetry of a shaft is to compare the shaft rotating a shaft on a frequency machine and checking Cycles Per Minute (CPM) variation around the its circumference. You get a stiffer reading when the spine is oriented the direction the shaft is deflected. If the CPM variation is 3 cycles or less when measured in the six planes illustrated, then the shaft is considered symmetrical for playing purposes. If the CPM variation ranges from 5 to 20 cycles (like I have measured), the desired CPM value should be positioned towards the target, or parallel to the face plane for consistent flex results within the set. This is the best way to neutralize non-symmetrical shafts according to the rules of golf.
The theory of spine aligning is that the golf shaft will perform better if the shaft is aligned in the clubhead so that the spine is "downline" with the direction of the golf shaft (so the spine would be in the 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock position - also called the neutral position.)
Indeed it does seem to make sense that if the stiffer spine is in the 1 o'clock position within the shaft (or 2 o'clock, or 5 o'clock, or 7 o'clock, or 11 o'clock, etc.), then it is highly likely the shaft won't perform as well as if the spine is in that downline 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock neutral position.
It is interesting to clamp down a properly spine aligned club into a club vice, and pull down hard on the head, and release it. The clubhead moves rapidly back and forth in a reasonably straight path. Then try it with a club that is NOT properly spine aligned. The difference is amazing.... the shaft/clubhead bounces all over the place, in about 50 different directions. The shafted club with the properly aligned spine position moves in a much straighter path.
We're not aware of any hard data that proves the validity or significance of spine aligned clubs. However, for sure, many of the top clubmakers, many shaft experts, and many really excellent golfers are convinced that the location of the shaft's spine in the golf club will have an affect on the overall performance of the club; including having an affect on shot dispersion and accuracy; having an affect on results from mishits; and most definitely will affect the feel of the club.
And last but not least, if your entire set is spine aligned, then your clubs should play more consistently club to club.
The theory of spine aligning is that the golf shaft will perform better if the shaft is aligned in the clubhead so that the spine is "downline" with the direction of the golf shaft (so the spine would be in the 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock position - also called the neutral position.)
Indeed it does seem to make sense that if the stiffer spine is in the 1 o'clock position within the shaft (or 2 o'clock, or 5 o'clock, or 7 o'clock, or 11 o'clock, etc.), then it is highly likely the shaft won't perform as well as if the spine is in that downline 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock neutral position.
It is interesting to clamp down a properly spine aligned club into a club vice, and pull down hard on the head, and release it. The clubhead moves rapidly back and forth in a reasonably straight path. Then try it with a club that is NOT properly spine aligned. The difference is amazing.... the shaft/clubhead bounces all over the place, in about 50 different directions. The shafted club with the properly aligned spine position moves in a much straighter path.
We're not aware of any hard data that proves the validity or significance of spine aligned clubs. However, for sure, many of the top clubmakers, many shaft experts, and many really excellent golfers are convinced that the location of the shaft's spine in the golf club will have an affect on the overall performance of the club; including having an affect on shot dispersion and accuracy; having an affect on results from mishits; and most definitely will affect the feel of the club.
And last but not least, if your entire set is spine aligned, then your clubs should play more consistently club to club.
Golf Club length and Distance
Increasing the length of the middle and short irons will not necessarily result in greater DISTANCE for all golfers because the shorter clubs in the set are easier to swing for all golfers. A length increase usually only helps more athletically gifted golfers hit the ball farther in their woods and long irons. This is because it is much harder for any golfer to hit the ball solid and on center with the longest clubs in the bag. It is usually only those with a gift of timing and coordination who are able to swing long woods with greater swing velocity and hit the ball on center.
Less athletically inclined golfers who have been using longer woods and long irons without much success can usually achieve greater Distance by DECREASING the length of these clubs. This is because the shorter the club, the easier it is to hit the ball on the center a higher percentage of the time. No golfer can ever expect to achieve his/her maximum potential Distance unless the ball is hit on the center of the face of the clubhead.
Less athletically inclined golfers who have been using longer woods and long irons without much success can usually achieve greater Distance by DECREASING the length of these clubs. This is because the shorter the club, the easier it is to hit the ball on the center a higher percentage of the time. No golfer can ever expect to achieve his/her maximum potential Distance unless the ball is hit on the center of the face of the clubhead.
Combining Launch Parameters for Distance and Accuracy
Ball velocity, launch angle and backspin are critical parameters that directly affect a golfer’s distance and accuracy. These three factors can sometimes be a hindrance to fitting just as they can be helpful. The solution for a golfer is often a combination of all these launch parameters, but determining how much of one and how much of another can be a tough question for clubmakers. Fortunately, we have launch monitors which take the guess work out of this part of the fitting.The answers depend on what the golfer wants to achieve in terms of distance versus accuracy. Since most golfers want both distance AND accuracy, the answers become even more difficult because at the time of impact certain launch parameters for distance are in opposition to the optimal parameters for accuracy. For maximum distance, the golfer needs to achieve a combination of launch parameters that delivers the BEST launch angle providing less backspin for golfers over 105 mph driver swing speed and more backspin for golfers with under a 105 mph swing speed, while simultaneously reaching the highest ball velocity.
It is easy to increase launch angle by increasing loft, moving to a more rearward center of gravity (CG) location in the club head, or using a shaft with a softer overall flex/softer flex tip section. But these changes on their own also bring a decrease in the ball velocity and an increase in backspin. So the net result could be a loss of distance if the drop in ball velocity, plus backspin change, cancels out the improvement effect of the launch angle change. Fortunately, extensive testing in this area has determined that we need not worry too much about this. As loft increases, the ball velocity does decrease, but the decrease is a much lower increment of change and thus has much less effect. Also, it is true that as loft increases, so too does the amount of backspin increase. The spin increase for each degree of loft increase is about 1000 rpm or more. Therefore, clubmakers are in a luxurious position of knowing that if they analyze and make the right decision about a golfer’s launch angle, real distance improvement can definitely follow.Proper shaft flex fitting — more specifically, the proper butt, center and tip section flexibility within the entire length of the shaft — is the next most important part in fitting your clubs properly. Many golfers do not know that there are no standards on the flex, of any shaft, across the shaft industry. Each shaft manufacturer has its own shaft flex specifications. In other words, Aldila's "R-Flex" may be Graffaloy's "S-Flex". Clubmakers have found that by testing the flexibility of the shaft thru the entire length (at several different data points) of the shaft, we can find a shaft that actually fits the golfers swing
It is easy to increase launch angle by increasing loft, moving to a more rearward center of gravity (CG) location in the club head, or using a shaft with a softer overall flex/softer flex tip section. But these changes on their own also bring a decrease in the ball velocity and an increase in backspin. So the net result could be a loss of distance if the drop in ball velocity, plus backspin change, cancels out the improvement effect of the launch angle change. Fortunately, extensive testing in this area has determined that we need not worry too much about this. As loft increases, the ball velocity does decrease, but the decrease is a much lower increment of change and thus has much less effect. Also, it is true that as loft increases, so too does the amount of backspin increase. The spin increase for each degree of loft increase is about 1000 rpm or more. Therefore, clubmakers are in a luxurious position of knowing that if they analyze and make the right decision about a golfer’s launch angle, real distance improvement can definitely follow.Proper shaft flex fitting — more specifically, the proper butt, center and tip section flexibility within the entire length of the shaft — is the next most important part in fitting your clubs properly. Many golfers do not know that there are no standards on the flex, of any shaft, across the shaft industry. Each shaft manufacturer has its own shaft flex specifications. In other words, Aldila's "R-Flex" may be Graffaloy's "S-Flex". Clubmakers have found that by testing the flexibility of the shaft thru the entire length (at several different data points) of the shaft, we can find a shaft that actually fits the golfers swing
MOI Certified Clubmaker, What does that mean for you?
MOI requires a measurement of the club's length, total weight, balance point, and the pendulum period done in the period counter hardware that comes with the MOI Matching System.
The MOI software allows me to MOI match any existing clubs, or to build a brand new set from scratch using any of your choice of; clubheads. Each club in your bag will swing feel exactly the same.
The MOI software allows me to MOI match any existing clubs, or to build a brand new set from scratch using any of your choice of; clubheads. Each club in your bag will swing feel exactly the same.
The MOI Speed Match System is an electronic instrument for directly measuring the MOI of any assembled golf club.
What IS MOI Matching?
MOI Matching is simply a replacement for Swingweight. If the goal is to get the clubs to feel the same to the golfer from club to club, then MOI does this much better than Swingweight because it is a measurement of how much force it will take the body to rotate the golf club
In a golf industry that is tossing around the term MOI in different ways, it can be confusing to know what MOI Matching of clubs really is. The recent marketing of drivers with a high MOI refers only to the driver head. By making new driver heads in which a farther from the head’ center of gravity, the high MOI drivers attempt to offer golfers more off center hit forgiveness. Every object you can think of has an MOI. However, only when that object is intended to be put into motion to rotate about some axis does its MOI mean anything. MOI Matching of the clubs in a set is all about making the Moment of Inertia of each FULLY ASSEMBLED CLUB to be the same. It is the release, otherwise known as the unhinging of the wrist-cock angle, which is the axis of rotation for each club. When the MOI of each club is the same, the golfer will use the same amount of swing force/effort to release the club through impact. Swintweight matched clubs don't do this. In a swingweight matched set, each club requires a little different swing force/effort to release the club through impact.
What will MOI Matching DO in Terms of Performance?
Club matching, no matter what the method, is all about trying to offer the golfer more consistency with all the clubs in the set. Swingweight has attempted to do this through a method centered on the use of a swingweight scale that has been made with an arbitrarily chosen 14” fulcrum point built into the scale. MOI matching is based on pure physics. Scientists have known for decades that if the goal is to make the force required exactly the same to move an object around an axis of rotation, making those objects to have the same Moment of Inertia is the only way to achieve that goal.
So far, using this technique in building clubs, the response has been phenomenal. Not once have we been asked by a golfer to have their clubs changed back to a swingweight matched set. In addition, the results are that golfers now enjoy a higher percentage of on center hits than before, when their clubs were swingweight matched.
Recently a report came from Dennis Piant, of Performance Fit Golf, in the Chicago area who works with Senior Tour Pro, Chip Beck. Chip had his clubs stolen and had Mizuno send him out replacements which were then torn apart and rebuilt by Dennis. Chip took delivery of his new sticks and after a couple of days, reported to Dennis that his clubs “didn’t feel right”. So Dennis got the clubs back, asked Chip if there was one that he particularly liked (in this case it was the 7 iron) and rebuilt the entire set to match that 7 iron’s MOI. Chip got back the set and was amazed at how great they felt. Now, whenever he’s in Dennis’ shop he tells all the golfers “you’ve got to get your set MOI’d”.
One of the significant benefits we’ve seen of MOI is better and faster skill acquisition for the golfer. This eliminates the need to “learn” each club and figure out how to properly square it.
In terms of fitting and building there isn’t a lot different between the two processes. The same key things that a fitter will do for determining the proper head, shaft, grip and playing length for the golfer still apply. When it comes time to do the build out instead of building all the clubs to a SW designation, the build out will be to a specific MOI number.
The easiest way to explain this is to say what would happen if you had a set in which all clubs were built to the same MOI, and you put each club on a swingweight scale to measure its individual swingweight. As you know, when clubs are built to the same swingweight, each club records the same letter and number measurement on the swingweight scale. For example, if the golfer’s desired swingweight were D-1, all swingweight matched clubs would read D-1 on the swingweight scale.
In an MOI matched set of clubs, the swingweight progressively increases from being lowest for the longest club in the set, to being highest for the shortest club in the set. In a set where each club is built to have the same MOI, this progressive increase in swingweight from longest to shortest length club is not exactly the same increment of swingweight increase because of slight variables in the shaft weight, shaft balance point, grip weight, and accuracy of the length change from club to club. But in general terms, it can be said in an MOI matched set of clubs, the swingweight progressively increases from being lowest for the longest club in the set, to being highest for the shortest club in the set.
Another key difference between SW and MOI is that you can’t “trick” the MOI. We all know the old saying about being able to swingweight a telephone pole to D1 which is a great illustration of the deficiencies of SW. We know that any weight we put on the grip end of the fulcrum will lower the SW, but does this actually make the club lighter to the golfer? It doesn’t, and when we do the same thing the MOI number will slightly increase. How Do You Know What MOI Measurement is the Right One for Each Golfer?
Choosing the right MOI for any golfer is somewhat similar to choosing the right swingweight for the golfer. The stronger the golfer, the more forceful the golfer swings at the ball, the higher the swingweight and the higher the MOI would be to best match the golfer’s requirements. Likewise, the weaker the golfer and more smoothly they swing the club, the lower the swingweight and the lower the MOI would need to be to work best for the golfer.
Again, it is important to remember that when you choose the proper head, shaft, grip and playing length for a particular golfer, you’ll be in an MOI “range”. Now it’s just a matter of fine tuning to find where the golfer likes the feel and shows good on center contact within that MOI range.
Pinpointing the right MOI can be done in a number of ways. Using a test club and adding lead tape to the head while letting the golfer hit shots is the most effective and efficient method of finding the right MOI that each club will have when built. This can be done only through a professional golf club fitting, by a certified professional clubfitter.
If MOI Matching is so Great, How Come the big golf companies Don’t Do It? The OEM golf companies are all about making millions of standard made clubs. All of their production methods and head specifications have been set up for swingweight matching. All men’s clubs are built to one swingweight and ladies to one other swingweight that is primarily established by their clubs being an inch shorter in length than the men’s. For any of these companies to change to MOI matching would require them to spend a fortune to try to re-educate golfers about the change.
Without naming any names, we know that a few of the OEM companies are aware of MOI Matching and are aware of its scientific justification for being better than swingweight matching to achieve the goal of making all clubs in a set swing with the same feel to the golfer. However, since all the OEM companies make their standard clubs to a single swingweight for each gender, were they to switch to MOI matching, they still would have to choose a single “standard” MOI to which all their clubs would be built. Since MOI Matching only works to full improvement benefits when customized to each golfer’s unique strength, athletic ability and swing characteristics, by making their clubs to one MOI, the OEM companies know that they would not be offering much of an improvement to the golfers over what they are doing now with a single standard swingweight for men and for women.
Building the clubs to a matched MOI would cost the OEMs a little more than simply building to swingweight. Accurate MOI matching takes a little more time, and one thing the OEM companies do NOT like to do is increase the cost of the standard clubs they make.
MOI Matching is simply a replacement for Swingweight. If the goal is to get the clubs to feel the same to the golfer from club to club, then MOI does this much better than Swingweight because it is a measurement of how much force it will take the body to rotate the golf club
In a golf industry that is tossing around the term MOI in different ways, it can be confusing to know what MOI Matching of clubs really is. The recent marketing of drivers with a high MOI refers only to the driver head. By making new driver heads in which a farther from the head’ center of gravity, the high MOI drivers attempt to offer golfers more off center hit forgiveness. Every object you can think of has an MOI. However, only when that object is intended to be put into motion to rotate about some axis does its MOI mean anything. MOI Matching of the clubs in a set is all about making the Moment of Inertia of each FULLY ASSEMBLED CLUB to be the same. It is the release, otherwise known as the unhinging of the wrist-cock angle, which is the axis of rotation for each club. When the MOI of each club is the same, the golfer will use the same amount of swing force/effort to release the club through impact. Swintweight matched clubs don't do this. In a swingweight matched set, each club requires a little different swing force/effort to release the club through impact.
What will MOI Matching DO in Terms of Performance?
Club matching, no matter what the method, is all about trying to offer the golfer more consistency with all the clubs in the set. Swingweight has attempted to do this through a method centered on the use of a swingweight scale that has been made with an arbitrarily chosen 14” fulcrum point built into the scale. MOI matching is based on pure physics. Scientists have known for decades that if the goal is to make the force required exactly the same to move an object around an axis of rotation, making those objects to have the same Moment of Inertia is the only way to achieve that goal.
So far, using this technique in building clubs, the response has been phenomenal. Not once have we been asked by a golfer to have their clubs changed back to a swingweight matched set. In addition, the results are that golfers now enjoy a higher percentage of on center hits than before, when their clubs were swingweight matched.
Recently a report came from Dennis Piant, of Performance Fit Golf, in the Chicago area who works with Senior Tour Pro, Chip Beck. Chip had his clubs stolen and had Mizuno send him out replacements which were then torn apart and rebuilt by Dennis. Chip took delivery of his new sticks and after a couple of days, reported to Dennis that his clubs “didn’t feel right”. So Dennis got the clubs back, asked Chip if there was one that he particularly liked (in this case it was the 7 iron) and rebuilt the entire set to match that 7 iron’s MOI. Chip got back the set and was amazed at how great they felt. Now, whenever he’s in Dennis’ shop he tells all the golfers “you’ve got to get your set MOI’d”.
One of the significant benefits we’ve seen of MOI is better and faster skill acquisition for the golfer. This eliminates the need to “learn” each club and figure out how to properly square it.
In terms of fitting and building there isn’t a lot different between the two processes. The same key things that a fitter will do for determining the proper head, shaft, grip and playing length for the golfer still apply. When it comes time to do the build out instead of building all the clubs to a SW designation, the build out will be to a specific MOI number.
The easiest way to explain this is to say what would happen if you had a set in which all clubs were built to the same MOI, and you put each club on a swingweight scale to measure its individual swingweight. As you know, when clubs are built to the same swingweight, each club records the same letter and number measurement on the swingweight scale. For example, if the golfer’s desired swingweight were D-1, all swingweight matched clubs would read D-1 on the swingweight scale.
In an MOI matched set of clubs, the swingweight progressively increases from being lowest for the longest club in the set, to being highest for the shortest club in the set. In a set where each club is built to have the same MOI, this progressive increase in swingweight from longest to shortest length club is not exactly the same increment of swingweight increase because of slight variables in the shaft weight, shaft balance point, grip weight, and accuracy of the length change from club to club. But in general terms, it can be said in an MOI matched set of clubs, the swingweight progressively increases from being lowest for the longest club in the set, to being highest for the shortest club in the set.
Another key difference between SW and MOI is that you can’t “trick” the MOI. We all know the old saying about being able to swingweight a telephone pole to D1 which is a great illustration of the deficiencies of SW. We know that any weight we put on the grip end of the fulcrum will lower the SW, but does this actually make the club lighter to the golfer? It doesn’t, and when we do the same thing the MOI number will slightly increase. How Do You Know What MOI Measurement is the Right One for Each Golfer?
Choosing the right MOI for any golfer is somewhat similar to choosing the right swingweight for the golfer. The stronger the golfer, the more forceful the golfer swings at the ball, the higher the swingweight and the higher the MOI would be to best match the golfer’s requirements. Likewise, the weaker the golfer and more smoothly they swing the club, the lower the swingweight and the lower the MOI would need to be to work best for the golfer.
Again, it is important to remember that when you choose the proper head, shaft, grip and playing length for a particular golfer, you’ll be in an MOI “range”. Now it’s just a matter of fine tuning to find where the golfer likes the feel and shows good on center contact within that MOI range.
Pinpointing the right MOI can be done in a number of ways. Using a test club and adding lead tape to the head while letting the golfer hit shots is the most effective and efficient method of finding the right MOI that each club will have when built. This can be done only through a professional golf club fitting, by a certified professional clubfitter.
If MOI Matching is so Great, How Come the big golf companies Don’t Do It? The OEM golf companies are all about making millions of standard made clubs. All of their production methods and head specifications have been set up for swingweight matching. All men’s clubs are built to one swingweight and ladies to one other swingweight that is primarily established by their clubs being an inch shorter in length than the men’s. For any of these companies to change to MOI matching would require them to spend a fortune to try to re-educate golfers about the change.
Without naming any names, we know that a few of the OEM companies are aware of MOI Matching and are aware of its scientific justification for being better than swingweight matching to achieve the goal of making all clubs in a set swing with the same feel to the golfer. However, since all the OEM companies make their standard clubs to a single swingweight for each gender, were they to switch to MOI matching, they still would have to choose a single “standard” MOI to which all their clubs would be built. Since MOI Matching only works to full improvement benefits when customized to each golfer’s unique strength, athletic ability and swing characteristics, by making their clubs to one MOI, the OEM companies know that they would not be offering much of an improvement to the golfers over what they are doing now with a single standard swingweight for men and for women.
Building the clubs to a matched MOI would cost the OEMs a little more than simply building to swingweight. Accurate MOI matching takes a little more time, and one thing the OEM companies do NOT like to do is increase the cost of the standard clubs they make.
USGA's Ruling on Grooves
Many of you might wonder what the new rules brought about by the USGA on groove conformity? First, the new lines must have a smaller groove area, and second, the top edge radii of the grooves must be increased, or made to be more rounded than before. The maximum allowed groove area is 0.0030 in2/in and the top groove edge radius must be 0.010” R (0.254mm R) with a tolerance up to 0.011” R (0.279mm R). Within these dimensions, the previous maximum allowed groove width of 0.035” (0.889mm), the groove spacing limits of no less than 3 times the groove width, and the maximum allowed groove depth of 0.020” (0.5mm) must also be observed for the scorelines to be ruled conforming. In the USGA’s groove conformity testing, allowances are made for slight deviations. For example, if 50% of more of the grooves are wider than 0.035” or if any one of the grooves is wider than 0.037”, the club is non-conforming. If 50% of the grooves are greater in depth than 0.020” or if any one of the grooves is deeper than 0.022”, the club is non-conforming.
Similar slight tolerances also exist for the spacing between the grooves, the consistency of the groove widths on the same clubhead, the groove area, and the top edge radius that are much too exhausting and complicated to spell out in detail in this article.
I thought many of you might be interested in actually seeing what the profile of one version of conforming new scorelines looks like when compared to a conforming version of the old scorelines.
In the following illustrations, the groove profile tracing on top represents the new scorelines on irons while the lower profile drawing represents the old scorelines. As you view these, keep in mind that most of all clubhead design work is done in metric dimensions. For ease of illustrating I have obtained reduced illustrations showing just a handful of the total number of grooves on the clubface.
Many of you might wonder what the new rules brought about by the USGA on groove conformity? First, the new lines must have a smaller groove area, and second, the top edge radii of the grooves must be increased, or made to be more rounded than before. The maximum allowed groove area is 0.0030 in2/in and the top groove edge radius must be 0.010” R (0.254mm R) with a tolerance up to 0.011” R (0.279mm R). Within these dimensions, the previous maximum allowed groove width of 0.035” (0.889mm), the groove spacing limits of no less than 3 times the groove width, and the maximum allowed groove depth of 0.020” (0.5mm) must also be observed for the scorelines to be ruled conforming. In the USGA’s groove conformity testing, allowances are made for slight deviations. For example, if 50% of more of the grooves are wider than 0.035” or if any one of the grooves is wider than 0.037”, the club is non-conforming. If 50% of the grooves are greater in depth than 0.020” or if any one of the grooves is deeper than 0.022”, the club is non-conforming.
Similar slight tolerances also exist for the spacing between the grooves, the consistency of the groove widths on the same clubhead, the groove area, and the top edge radius that are much too exhausting and complicated to spell out in detail in this article.
I thought many of you might be interested in actually seeing what the profile of one version of conforming new scorelines looks like when compared to a conforming version of the old scorelines.
In the following illustrations, the groove profile tracing on top represents the new scorelines on irons while the lower profile drawing represents the old scorelines. As you view these, keep in mind that most of all clubhead design work is done in metric dimensions. For ease of illustrating I have obtained reduced illustrations showing just a handful of the total number of grooves on the clubface.
Okay, here is the latest data from the tour through 20 tournaments (through The Players at TPC Sawgrass 2010). As usual the data is from the May 20 edition of GolfWorld magazine and the data is from the ShotLink archives. "Although many felt the new grooves combined with the Bermuda rough at TPC Sawgrass would significantly impact shots at the Players, the stats showed that, year-to-year, approaches from 50-125 yards in the rough were closer, as were approaches from 125-150 yards in the rough. The scrambling numbers indicate players were more successful in that area, too.
So, I wonder when the USGA, the R & A and the PGA Tour will recognize their "experiment" was a bust and rescind the rule so we can get on with REAL issues affecting the game of golf? For instance; economy, length of time needed to play the game, water conservation, ball uniformity, etc. all seem to me to be more important than the "grooves" on a golf club that affects ONLY the best players in the world anyway. It is pretty obvious that trying to keep these guys "in check" with gimmicks like groove changes is NOT going to work - the pros are just TOO GOOD for that kind of approach.
Tennis, anyone?
So, I wonder when the USGA, the R & A and the PGA Tour will recognize their "experiment" was a bust and rescind the rule so we can get on with REAL issues affecting the game of golf? For instance; economy, length of time needed to play the game, water conservation, ball uniformity, etc. all seem to me to be more important than the "grooves" on a golf club that affects ONLY the best players in the world anyway. It is pretty obvious that trying to keep these guys "in check" with gimmicks like groove changes is NOT going to work - the pros are just TOO GOOD for that kind of approach.
Tennis, anyone?
| 2009 | 2010 | Results | |
| Driving Distance: | 286 yds | 282.7 yds | - 3.3 yds |
| Driving accuracy; | 64.64 % | 64.64% | No Change |
| Approaches from rough (50-125 yds) | 26' 7" | 26' 3" | 0' 4" closer |
| Approaches from rough (125-150 yds) | 34' 9" | 34' 1" | 0' 8" closer |
| Scrambling success (outside 30 yds) | 26.91% | 28.76% | + 1.85% pts |
| Scoring average | 71.23 | 71.43 | 0.20 higher |
Certified Professional Golf Clubfitting and Clubmaking
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Graymere Country Club Pro Shop
Columbia, Tn. 38401
931-334-3831
Call for an Appointment Today!
Graymere Country Club Pro Shop
Columbia, Tn. 38401
931-334-3831
Call for an Appointment Today!
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There are different options available in the golf business, all which are termed by some to be a "custom fitting". The problem is, since 98% of all golfers really don't know what constitutes a professional custom golf club fitting, it's easy to think you're getting the 'full detail job' when you're really ending up with only a 'hose job.'
- Professional Custom Golf Club Fitting is not answering five or six questions on a website to be 'fit'.
- Professional Custom Golf Club Fitting is not a cart filled with different golf clubs sitting in a pro shop or on the practice range.
- Professional Custom Golf Club Fitting is not attending a Demo Day at your local driving range and hitting clubs until you find something you like.
- Professional Custom Golf Club Fitting is not something that can be accomplished from start to finish in 20 minutes or less, regardless if you are hitting balls on a launch monitor.
- Professional Custom Golf Club Fitting is not done by altering a limited number of specifications of an existing standard made set of golf clubs.
- Professional Custom Golf Club Fitting is not buying a driver with an adjustable hosel that can only alter two of the thirteen key club fitting specifications and only within a very limited range of options.
Professional Custom Golf Club Fitting IS working one on one with a trained custom professional golf club fitter and golf club maker to analyze all of your individual swing characteristics to accurately determine each one of the 13 key clubfitting specifications on ALL 14 golf clubs in the bag. Professional Custom Golf Club Fitting IS having all 14 of your golf clubs custom fit and custom built from scratch, in the same manner as a tailor making a custom suit, with every one of the key fitting specifications fit to your size, strength, athletic ability and swing characteristics. Professional Custom Golf Club Fitting IS the domain of the serious, professional in a retail golf store or pro shop.
- Professional Custom Golf Club Fitting is not answering five or six questions on a website to be 'fit'.
- Professional Custom Golf Club Fitting is not a cart filled with different golf clubs sitting in a pro shop or on the practice range.
- Professional Custom Golf Club Fitting is not attending a Demo Day at your local driving range and hitting clubs until you find something you like.
- Professional Custom Golf Club Fitting is not something that can be accomplished from start to finish in 20 minutes or less, regardless if you are hitting balls on a launch monitor.
- Professional Custom Golf Club Fitting is not done by altering a limited number of specifications of an existing standard made set of golf clubs.
- Professional Custom Golf Club Fitting is not buying a driver with an adjustable hosel that can only alter two of the thirteen key club fitting specifications and only within a very limited range of options.
Professional Custom Golf Club Fitting IS working one on one with a trained custom professional golf club fitter and golf club maker to analyze all of your individual swing characteristics to accurately determine each one of the 13 key clubfitting specifications on ALL 14 golf clubs in the bag. Professional Custom Golf Club Fitting IS having all 14 of your golf clubs custom fit and custom built from scratch, in the same manner as a tailor making a custom suit, with every one of the key fitting specifications fit to your size, strength, athletic ability and swing characteristics. Professional Custom Golf Club Fitting IS the domain of the serious, professional in a retail golf store or pro shop.